Tv Pilot 2 1 000

• Tv Pilot 2 1 000 Yen
• Tv Pilot 2 1 000 Euros
• Tv Pilot 2 1 000 Dollars

TV.com is your reference guide to episodes, photos, videos, cast and crew information, reviews and more. A television pilot (also known as a pilot or a pilot episode and sometimes marketed as a tele-movie) is a standalone episode of a television series that is used to sell the show to a television network.At the time of its creation, the pilot is meant to be the testing ground to gauge whether a series will be successful. It is, therefore, a test episode for the intended television series, an. Each month, 1,000 struggling Chicagoans would get $1,000, no strings attached, to help break the cycle of poverty, under a trail-blazing pilot program proposed Thursday by a mayoral task force.

TV channel frequencies

This page covers TV channel frequencies. It includes VHF and UHF frequencies fromchannel no. 2 to channel no. 69.

TV channel frequencies are assigned in 54 to 806 MHz RF frequency band. These total spectrum is divided into 68 TV channels.Each channel occupies 6MHz bandwidth.

To calculate picture carrier value, add 1.25MHz to the lower frequency range.To derive sound carrier value, add 4.5 MHz to the picture carrier obtained.

For example, for channel no. 6 which has band from 82 to 88 MHz.
Picture carrier = 82 + 1.25 = 83.25 MHz
Sound carrier = 83.25 + 4.5 = 87.75 MHz

The table below mentions TV channel frequencies in MHz for all the TV channels.

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DVB-T vs DVB-S vs DVB-C vs DVB-H

Pilot Model TV-37 'Candid' Television (1948)

The Pilot TV-37 'Candid' is an unusual vintage television. With a tiny3-inch picture tube, it is barely watchable by modern standards, but the TV-37'scompact size and unusual design make it a favorite of collectors.

Pilot introduced the TV-37 in 1948, at the then-amazingly low price of $99. Most 1940s TVssold for hundreds of dollars, the cost of a decent automobile.Pilot made this set for only a few years, but sold a lot of them during that time.Many TV-37s still survive.

Pilot marketed this set especially to college students, and it would have been a luckystudent who got such a gift. The owner's daughter recalled neighbors crowding into theirliving room in 1948 for a look at this marvelous new invention.

Description

I bought this TV-37 from the daughter of the original owner.It had been well cared for and the owner partly restoredit during the 1960s, leaving detailed notes.

The TV is housed in a streamlined cabinet with a wooden base and an upper casemade of pressboard. The entire TV is only 14 inches wide, 13 inches deep, and9.5 inches high, the size of a large table radio. Most of the upper case is perforated for ventilation.

The front controls are simple: power/volume, brightness, tuning, and contrast.The tuner control includes a high/low switch, which lets you select two tuning ranges.The low range is channels 2-6 and the high range is channels 7-13.

The knobs have Pilot's classic ship's wheel design. If your TV-37 is missing a knobor two, reproductions are available.

My TV-37 came with the original owner's manual:

The next photo gives you an idea of the screen size. That's a halfdollar coin!

My Pilot came with a magnifying lens to place in front of the picture tube.The second photo is animated to demonstrate the magnifier's effect.

Magnifiers were an extra-cost accessory, as was a pressboard carrying case with built-inantenna. Magnifiers are harder to find the TVs themselves, since not everyone bought oneand some were lost over the years. Magnifiers typically hooked onto the horizontal grill bars; these photosshow that sort of lens.

My magnifier stands on little metal legs that slip under the cabinet. The owner's notes include a pencilmechanical drawing with dimensions for the magnifier and legs. Evidently, he builtthe legs and painted them to match the trim on the magnifier.This is an improvement over the original scheme, since the heavymagnifier tended to warp or break the thin grill bars.

On the bottom of the wooden base is a label showing the tube layout.The TV's serial number (204462) is written there in yellow crayon andalso stamped in the rear of the aluminum chassis.

The next photo shows the TV-37 with its hat off:

The TV-37's electronic design is similar to other electrostatic-deflection TVsof that era, such as my 7-inchers, the Admiral 19A12,National TV-7W,Motorola VT-73, and Hallicrafters 505.

The television uses 21 tubes, including a 3-inch electrostatic-deflectionpicture tube.

The TV-37 has DC restoration but it lacks AGC (automatic gain control). ItsContrast control could more properly called a manual gain control, sinceit varies the gain of the RF and IF amplifiers. As with other TVs usingmanual gain control, such as myRCA 630TS, you'll need to adjust thiswhen switching from one source to another (or sometimes, from oneprogram to another).

Unlike most TV tuners, the Pilot's is continuously variable. Instead of clickingfrom one station to the next, it turns smoothly like a radio tuner. Thiswas a cost-saving measure; the Pilot tuner contains far fewer parts than otherTV tuners. Its construction is similar to a radio tuner, using air variablecapacitors, pulleys and strings. (Don't confuse this type oftuner with the robust—and vastly more expensive—continuous tuners usedin my DuMont RA-103 andRA-113 televisions).

Another cost-saving (and weight-saving) design tactic was to eliminate theexpensive and heavy power transformer. This is a transformerless 'series string'TV, in which the tube filaments are connected in series. As in series-string radios, thevoltages of the tubes add up to the voltage of the AC power supply (around120 volts). Given the number of tubes, it actually uses two parallel tubestrings, a design repeated in some other TVs such as my Philco Predicta.

Here are the Riders and Sams service manuals for the TV-37.To download one to your computer, right-click on the icon and then choose Save Target As.

Pilot produced early (TV-37) and late (TV-37U) versions of this television, with some electronicchanges as well as slight cosmetic differences. In thisforum discussion you'll finda summary of the changes.

The 3KP4 Picture Tube

As far as I know, the Pilot was the only consumer television to use the three-inch3KP4 picture tube.Even early kit TVs of the 1940s used larger tubes.The Pilot's 3KP4 is also notorious for burning out because it(along with the other tubes) is subjected to a stiff power surge when youturn the set on. As a result, 3KP4s are scarce and costly.

One cure for the surge problem is to disconnect the picture tube'sfilament from the filament string and supply it independently froma small 6.3-volt transformer (the Triad F-13X is suitable). When this is done, you should also install a 12 ohm power resistorat the picture tube's former position in the filament string.

Another remedy is to install a type CL-90 thermistor on the AC linebetween the power switch and the filament string. The thermistorpresents a higher resistance when cold, which decreases to almostnothing after it warms up. The 'soft start' moderates thesurge. Thermistors were a standard feature in my PhilcoPredicta and other later TVs.

Some Pilot owners substitute the more common 3KP1 picture tube if their original3KP4 is burned out, or simply for testing purposes during restoration.The 3KP1 is electrically interchangeable but it was designedfor 1940s oscilloscopes with green screens.

The 3KP1 is not an ideal substitute. A green phosphor tube isdarker than a white one, making normal viewing a challenge. The slow-responsegreen phosphor also creates trails on fast-moving objects.

Since a 3KP4 cannot be tested on any tube tester, I couldn't tell at firstwhether mine was good.I tested the filament with an ohmmeter and found that it had continuity, soI knew it wasn't a total dud, at least. It still might have poor emission andthus be too dim to watch, however. Only restoring the TV willtell me whether it really works.

Restoration

The cabinet required no cosmetic restoration except for touching upa couple of tiny paint nicks on the base. Like all TVs of this vintage,the chassis will need electronic restoration to be made reliable.

This photo shows the underside of the chassis as found:

The previous owner had done some restoration, replacing about ten papercapacitors and a few resistors. I'd guess the work was done in the 1960s, judgingby the type of components used and the fact that the owner retired in 1965.Most of the replacements were epoxy-dipped caps, usually far more reliable than paper, soI decided to leave them in place until I replaced the othersand judged how the TV works.

The chassis still contained all of the original electrolytics, plusabout a dozen paper capacitors, including the critical high-voltage caps.Those will be replaced by me.

Before replacing anything, I tested all of the tubes and cleaned their pins.I also cleaned and lubricated the tuner and allof the control potentiometers (volume, brightness, etc.). The tuner and two potentiometerswere completely stuck on their shafts, but I freed them with solventfollowed by electronic cleaner and lubricant.

Capacitors, Capacitors

After receiving some new parts in the mail, I beganreplacing capacitors.The new ones are smaller than the originals, making it easierto fit them into tight spaces.

Notice the tubular film capacitor rated for 6000 volts. I prefer to replacehigh voltage caps with this type rather than ceramic discs, which may beunstable. You can get tubular HV-rated caps fromJust Radios.

I replaced all of the electrolytic capacitors, including a couplethat looked like 1960s replacements. On some TV-37s, capacitor C2was mounted underneath the chassis. On mine, it was mounted in acan atop the chassis. There's plenty of room underneath, so Imounted the replacements down there and left the oldcans in place for appearance.

Note that two of the power-supply electrolytics, C2 and C3, areinstalled with their positive leads connected to the chassis ground.This is different than what you'll see in many radios and TVs.Don't install those two backwards—your TV won't work!

Don't forget the capacitor inside the high voltage cage.

Pay attention to the little copper collar on the midsection of the 1B3GT tube.It is important for correct high voltage output. Before removing the tube fortesting, I marked its position with a Sharpie and took care to slide it backinto the right place. You can read about the purpose of this connectionin my Motorola VT-71 article.

First Power-Up

With new electrolytics and high-voltage caps, it was time to tryfiring up this TV. I connected it to a variac and slowly broughtup the voltage, looking and listening for any signs of trouble.

The tube filaments began to glow, but there was no sign ofa raster on the CRT. I could hear a putt-putt sound fromthe speaker, which became faster as I increased the voltage, butno real audio.

Time for some voltage checks! I quickly determined that the B+ voltagewas much lower than specified in the schematic.

I re-tested the two rectifier tubes (25Z6GT and 35W4) and re-cleanedtheir pins and sockets, just in case of a bad connection. The B+ voltagewas still too low. Acting on a tip from a fellow TV-37 owner, I connecteda modern silicon diode across the 25Z6 tube, between pins 3/5 and 4/8,with the positive band of the diode pointing to the positive lead ofelectrolytic C1A.

That brought the B+ voltage up to a normal level. On the next power-up, Iwas delighted to hear excellent audio from the TV on its upper channel range,indicating that the TV's tuner and audio sections were basically functional.Not so good on the lower channel range, but we could defer that investigationuntil later.

High Voltage Testing

The absence of a raster suggested that we still had problems in thehigh-voltage power supply—often the trickiest section to restorein any vintage TV.

The data sheetfor the 3KP4 picture tube indicates that you need a minimum of 1000 voltsand a maximum of 2500 volts.

You can't test high voltage with an ordinary multimeter. I have two probessuitable for this. The one on the bottom of the photo is my favorite,a Pomona 2900A. It operates all on its own. The probe on the top isan RCA WG-284, which can be used with my old RCA Senior Volt-Ohmyst tester.

Testing indicated only about 800 volts, where you would expect to measureat least 1 kilovolt. That explains the lack of a picture!

Resistors, Resistors

The high voltage section of an electrostatic-deflection TV typicallycontains several resistors with values over 1 megohm, and the Pilot is no exception,using values as high as 4.7 megohms.

Old carbon composition resistors often drift upward, and severalof this television's high-value resistors had drifted badly, sometimes to as much astwice their original value. I replaced several of the worst offenders, butthe high-voltage level was still deficient.

A Light Bulb Goes Off

Then I remembered that a few of the 1960s replacement capacitors were not'maroon drops.' Three of them were white, apparently cased inceramic, and the fourth was a large yellow Mallory 'Plascap.'

I hadn't run across either type before, but I dimly remembered somethingabout ceramic tubular caps being paper capacitors in disguise—andpotentially as troublesome. I sent a brief query to a vintage TV forumand got a consensus that both types should be replaced.

Here are some of the 1960s culprits and their modern replacements.

First Picture!

After replacing those caps, the next power-up gave the first pictures I had seenfrom this television!

Now, this picture isn't perfect, but it's always excitingto see an old baby like this come back to life. Best news of all, the image indicatedthat my rare CRT was not a total dud.

The picture was very dim, visible only in a dark room, and the width and heightwere excessive. When the TV is inside the cabinet, the image size will need tobe reduced to fit inside the mask.

The excessive height accentuated the horizontal scan lines, and thevertical and horizontal centering were also a bit off, but these are all thingsthat you can adjust by twiddling controls.

These are photos of live broadcasts, received with a 1950s rabbit ear antenna.We live in an area where all broadcast signals are prettyweak, so this was an encouraging sign, showing that the TVhas decent sensitivity. (2012 note: this part of the restorationwas done before the 2009 changeover from analog to digital TV broadcasts.)

Another photo shows fair detail, so thetuner and IF sections are passing a reasonably clean signal.You can read '2nd & 10' in the little scoreboard near the upper right:

(The actual picture is sharper than in the photo; my camera has troublefocusing on CRTs.)

If you view the previous photo on a normal size computer screen, it'sroughly double the size of the TV-37's picture. Okay, so the Pilot'snot ideal for watching sports events, but other kinds of programmingcan still be fun to view.

Restoration, Round Two

That's where the restoration remained for a few years. I got distracted bynew projects and the poor little Pilot languished on a shelf.

In 2012, I brought the TV-37 back into my workshop to complete the job.Although I had coaxed a picture out of it before, theimage was dreadfully dim and I hadn't really finished the restoration.

The first trial was discouraging, with no hint of a screen image, althoughthe audio was still working. A quick check revealed that highvoltage was completely absent.

Here's an obvious troublemaker. This resistor tested open on my ohmmeter,and when I grasped one end with a pliers to unsolder it, the two halvesfell apart.

Replacing that resistor brought a faint glimmer to the screen, butthe high voltage was still too low and no video signal was apparent.

I began methodically checking resistors, starting with those in the horizontaland high voltage circuits. Many were far off tolerance,and so out they went. These photos show the replacement of threeresistors on the 26L6GT horizontal oscillator tube.

Tedious work, but soon I could get a coherent image on the screen again.The next photo shows a crosshatch test pattern. The picture was ratherunstable, however, with poor brightness and contrast.

Although the screen looks fairly bright in the previous photo, thatshot was taken in a dimly lit room with faint backlighting. Thecamera's auto-correction made everything, including the screenpattern, brighter than in life.

Working through the high voltage, sweep, and video sections,I found more and more bad resistors. As I replaced them, the picture gradually stabilizedand improved in brightness and contrast. Here are some photos taken during the process.

Tv Pilot 2 1 000 Yen

In the first photo, the brightness has improved but the contrast is deficient,leaving the image flat and lifeless. By the time we get to the third photo,we have a fuller dynamic range.

Final Thoughts

I put the chassis back into the cabinet and made the final adjustments forscreen height, width, and so on. Then I bench tested the TV for a few hours.It performed well and looked stable, so with that, I declared victory.On to the next project!

Here's the restored TV-37 from all angles:

Tv Pilot 2 1 000 Euros

To celebrate my Pilot's return to the living, let's take another look atthe animated .GIF showing it with and without the magnifier:

Tv Pilot 2 1 000 Dollars

I didn't install a filament transformer or thermistor in this TV, after all. It won't getplayed often, so I'll just give it a slow power-up on the variac when Ishow it to visitors.